For a very long time, Bordeaux has been the benchmark region against which other wines are measured, principally because rigid policy on vineyards, production and labelling has been strictly enforced and monitored by the powerful governing bodies which have been in existence for over 150 years.

One of the first things done was the division of départements. Situated in the Gironde department of Aquitaine, Bordeaux is divided by the Gironde River into the Left Bank: Médoc, St-Estèphe, Pauillac, St-Julien, and Margaux. And the Right Bank: Saint Emilion, Pomerol, Bourg and Blaye. In addition there's Graves, south-east of the Médoc, with Pessac-Leognan, Sauternes and Barsac. All have their own appellation and appellation d'origine contrôlée - laws that dictate everything from time of harvest to permitted winemaking techniques.

Confused? Probably the easiest way to sort them out in general is as follows: the Left Bank makes more Cabernet Sauvignon based wine and the Right Bank more Merlot based. Red wine predominates in the Graves area and white wines from Sauvignon Blanc and Semillon grapes and also dessert wines. Sauternes and Barsac are best known for botrytised dessert wines.

Bordeaux wine labels are known for their paucity of information, they refuse to name the grapes for a start, with Gallic self-assurance it is assumed everyone will know. But they will include the region on the front label if all the grapes have been harvested in a specific region.  

Bordeaux is blessed with a wide medley of soils and micro-climates, which enable winemakers to produce a wide range of wines. They range from Grand Cru Classé to generic Bordeaux and Bordeaux Supérieur.

General Trends

The finest red wines of Haut-Médoc in the communes of Margaux, St. Julien, St. Estèphe, Pauillac, Moulis and Listrac are powerful, full-bodied, and fruity. Best known of the classic communes is Margaux, whose wine reputation comes from their fragrant bouquet, exceptional charm and finesse. Château Margaux has been a top first growth performer for many years and Châteaux Palmer and Giscours wines are exceptional.

The most dependable commune of the whole Haut-Médoc is probably that of St. Julien with its text book down-to-earth cedary reds produced in top flight properties such as Ducru Beaucaillou, Léoville-Las-Cases and Léoville Poyferré.

But, the most famous village of all Bordeaux amongst wine connoisseurs is undoubtedly Pauillac. Here is where one finds three of Médoc's top four Premier Cru Classé, namely Châteaux Lafite Rothschild, Mouton-Rothschild and Latour. And that’s not all; some of my personal favourites include Châteaux Comtesse Pichon Longueville Lalande, Lynch-Bages and Pontet Canet. Superbly consistent and very carefully produced, these are the wines that gave Bordeaux its reputation.

Towards the most northerly vineyards of the Haut-Médoc is the classic appellation of St. Estèphe, whose wines tend to have the deepest colour, the most austere characteristics and the longest life span, a desirable trait if you're laying down wines for the future. Outstanding estates are those of Chateaux Cos d'Estournel, Montrose and Calon-Ségur.

The smallest of the major appellations Pomerol, is celebrated for its Merlot - the style tends to be velvety and plummy with a distinctive bouquet. Think Petrus, Le-Pin, Le Gay and Vieux Certan. A satellite region, Lalande de Pomerol produces wines that are less powerful and faster maturing, and also kinder on the wallet.

The oldest wine area, St. Emilion, surrounds a picturesque town situated at the edge of a plateau known as the Pearl of the Gironde. It has softer reds that are generous and luscious with an enticingly spicy quality. The long list of prominent producers includes; Clos Fourtet, Châteaux Belair, Canon, Figeac, Pavie, and Beausejour-Becot with exceptional Premier Grand Cru Classé such as Châteaux Ausone, Angelus and Cheval-Blanc.

Some of Bordeaux's finest dry white wines, made from Sauvignon Blanc and Semillon grapes, come from the Graves district, notably Château La Louvière from the house of André Lurton, one of the most eminent wine producers of the past half century. They tend to be delicate, fresh, full-flavoured and dry.

Graves reds are spicy with hints of tobacco that are at times earthy. The premier district there is Pessac-Léognan AOC - home to Châteaux Haut-Brion, Carbonnieux and Smith-Haut-Lafite.

The wines of Fronsac - Château Les Tonnelles, and Canon-Fronsac such as La Croix, are very much under-rated in Hong Kong. They are perfumed, firm, spicy reds, and for the most part they are ‘food wines’.

The appellation 'Graves Supérieures AOC' is reserved for botrytis-affected Sauvignon and Semillon (same area as Graves AOC) from the south-east region of Sauternes and Barsac. The name that fairly jumps out at you here is surely the Premier Cru Supérieur Château d'Yquem. The most highly prized botrytis wine in the world.

Dernier Cri

An area that is becoming more popular, with its lower priced wines that are ideal for daily and immediate drinking, is Entre-Deux-Mers. With the French penchant for doing things their way, it's not really between two seas but actually between two rivers. A white Entre-Deux-Mers is light, crisp, fresh and dry, and usually bottled when three or four months old and drunk within the year. The reds, classified as Bordeaux or Bordeaux Supérieur, are light and well-balanced. Unlike the bigger wines of Bordeaux, these reds should be drunk within two to three years while they are still showing youthful fruit.

Because of their flexibility in terms of taste and flavour, Entre-Deux-Mers wines can be matched to almost every style of cooking in the world. From the numerous cuisines of Asia - Chinese, Vietnamese, Thai, Indian, and Japanese - to the culinary styles of the West - Italian, American, French and Fusion.

Overall, the fascination of Bordeaux is that no matter how many years you spend in tasting and exploring each of the villages and communes, there is always something new to discover - new properties, new replantings, new vintages and sometimes new owners.

With no more custom duty on wine in Hong Kong, there's only one more thing to say, santé!