For two Riesling lovers, this should have been in paradise. Rows and rows of Riesling vines ran over the rolling hills. A rustic winery perched at the crest of the hill. It would have been perfect, except that we had no water, the dreadful sun was beating down, and the picturesque hill was a punishing 45 degree slope. It was so steep we had to abandon riding our bikes and were instead pushing them up to the winery, with the promise of tasting some crisp Rieslings at the summit.

That was our first morning in the Rheingau, one of the meccas of Germany's fabulous Riesling wines. We were there because it is very quick to get to from the International Airport at Frankfurt, and I had read online about a promising bicycling trail called the “Riesling Route”; a supposedly well marked 70km stretch of nothing but rivers, scenic lookouts, and countless wineries serving great Rieslings.

Our plan was to stay at a winery/boutique hotel called J.Koeger in Eltville. This boutique is nothing like the tourist traps you find up in Rüdesheim; recently renovated, black slate floors and sinks, old, exposed wood beam ceilings, and the faint, comforting smell of wine fermentation. The boutique has a family-run feel, and very reasonably priced but absolutely mind blowing breakfasts and dinners. Add in the 10 Euro bottles of wine in the mini-bar and we never wanted to leave.

But we were here to drink wine from as many wineries as possible, so we picked up two complimentary bikes from the hotel, and prepared to spend the next three days eating, drinking and cycling along the Rhine river valley. The reality however, was that the Riesling Route, or at least the bit that goes through Eltville is a constant uphill slope interspaced with brutal mountainous climbs up through the vineyards. This is not a route for casual wine tasters on vacation, and would require a triathlete level of physical fitness to surmount. We lasted 20 minutes. (The winery at the top of the hill was closed and broke the last of our resolve).

Bailing on our romantic cycling tour, we instead visited wineries by taking the train to the neighboring towns and roaming the city streets on foot. It turns out that you don't have to trek up to the hills to visit wineries; as every wine maker has a tasting shop in the towns. As an added bonus you get to wander around ancient cobblestone streets, and check out the local wine bars, restaurants, and craft stores. Probably the most fun (and touristy) town to visit was Rüdesheim. Although packed with international visitors, it does have charm, and a cable car going up the hills to scenic lookout points where you can wander the vineyards without the hassle of actually walking up there.

The only real disappointment was the Wine Museum. The best part of the museum is the old castle that its housed in, but the actual displays are dull, and the audio guide gave informational gems like “you may wonder why this glass bowl is called a Punch Bowl. It is because it was used to serve Punch.”

Once done with Rüdesheim, we called a cab up to Johannisberg, a small town at the top of yet another hill, to see possibly the most famous winery in Rüdesheim, Schloss Johannisberg. This amazing winery looks like it was taken straight out of a painting, and commands an incredible view of the surrounding countryside. If you visit, be sure to call ahead and ask if there is a wine tour/tasting available, and if you're lucky, you will be escorted around the massive grounds of this estate, including down into the (freezing cold) cellars where the largest Riesling library in Germany is kept including some very old bottles from the early 18^th century. The tour ends up at the shop (of course), where the store manager will happily pour everything from their humble Kabinett to the gorgeously sweet, rich and rare dessert wine, Trockenbeerenauslese ($400 Euro a half bottle!).

After three days of biking, eating and drinking, we finally have to say goodbye to the Rheingau and head back home. It's hard to leave such a beautiful area teaming with great wine, but at least with the two cases we were going back with, we could enjoy it a bit longer.

Mentioned Locations:

J.Koegler Winery / Boutique Hotel
Schloss Johannisberg Winery
Rheingau Riesling Route